MCF Rare Wine Ltd.
Two Barbaresco Producers That You Need To Get To Know
Okay, so I'm going to get a little animated about these.
Maybe it's because I haven't offered any great Nebbiolo in a while and I'm in withdrawal...
I think it's more that I'm just really really excited about these three Barbarescos from two producers who I was unfamiliar with, but both of which totally bowled me over.
It's always hard when I taste something new from a place like Barbaresco, and I'll admit that it's mostly because there are producers with whom I've become so familiar that it's often hard to see beyond them.
There have also been so many times when I taste a Barbaresco (or Barolo or Burgundy or whatever) that I've never heard of and then I realize why I've never heard of it...because the wine just isn't all that good.
Then every so often I come across a producer that I was unfamiliar with (or in this case two of them) and it totally knocks my socks off.
I thought long and hard about offering these two producers in two separate newsletters, but they represent two different, but equally authentic styles of Barbaresco and I always find that comparison is such a great learning tool.
NOTE: when I say comparison, I don't mean the 'this one is 15 points better than that one, definitively, written in stone for eternity' kind of comparison.
I mean the 'this one is delicious and so is that one, but they are for different reasons' way.
So, let's get to it...
I would put both of these producers squarely in the traditional camp in terms of overall feel, but, again, underneath the 'traditional' umbrella some very different expressions can emerge.
Cantina del Glicine uses a much less oxidative approach to their winemaking and, consequently, this fantastic 2013 Barbaresco Vignesparse is a much more chiseled expression. This is a bright, high-toned Barbaresco that's full of energy and leans heavily towards the red fruit side of the spectrum.
Despite its racy personality, this is also a wine with some serious backbone and is one that, while delicious now, will greatly reward some patience.
On the other side of the coin, we have Luigi Giordano, another fantastic producer with holdings in some of the most storied real estate in Barbaresco - vineyards like Asili and Montestefano.
Giordano's style is more weighty and muscular (a la Produttori or Giacosa). The wines show plenty of the aromatic grace you expect from Barbaresco, but with deeper and darker fruit lurking underneath. I'm offering two of his three single cru wines today.
The Barbaresco Cavanna 2013 is one of the best all-around wines I've had in a long time at such a fair price. It's surprisingly friendly, yet seriously built. The red-but-leaning-darker fruit has a great supple quality to it and it blends beautifully with the earthy nuances and deceptively firm structure. For $35, there's not a whole lot to complain about!
I'm also really happy to offer some (emphasize some, as this one is limited in availability) of the absolutely fabulous 2013 Barbaresco Asili. Hailing from what is perhaps Barbaresco's most famous and highly regarded site, this Asili takes everything to the top rung. Like the Cavanna, it offers all manner of classic Barbaresco aromas and textures, but with a much more serious feel to it.
The complexity runs deeper, the nuances are more pronounced and the burly structure is much more apparent.
This is seriously cellar-worthy stuff and at an incredibly fair price for the level of wine that you're getting.
Three great, totally delicious Barbarescos at really fair pricing...
...I'd call that a pretty triumphant return to the newsletter for Nebbiolo...
Barbaresco Vignesparse 2013
$35/btl (REG $38)
$378/cs of 12 (17% discount)
LUIGI GIORDANO BARBARESCO
Barbaresco Cavanna 2013
$35/btl (REG $38)
$378/cs of 12 (17% discount
Barbaresco Asili 2013 (ltd)
$54/btl (NET, REG $61)