MCF Rare Wine
Nervi Conterno - Gattinara's New Gravity Center
The Gattinara of Nervi, since the estate came under the control of Roberto Conterno have, undoubtedly, gone from great values to truly great wines.
That's not to take away from the estate's last iteration - I mean, I'm pretty sure we sold more of that Nervi than anyone (seriously) - but as Conterno does, he's turned the wines from something special into the new gravity center that the Alto Piemonte now orbits around.
Is he more important to the region in terms of knowledge and winemaking than someone like Cristiano Garella? Of course not, but what he may not have in terms of history in the region, he more than makes up for in not only the attention he brings to it, but also the ability to shoot for the moon in terms of quality and ambitious winemaking.
What I mean there is that he acquired the estate, and immediately overhauled the winery, cellar and the approach to how things are done there, which is something most of the small farmer estates there couldn't do.
And what is the result?
Well, wines of immense depth and longevity that stay true to what Gattinara is. Instead of descending on the region and trying to recreate what he does in Barolo, these are still high-toned, fragrant, electric and airy expressions of Nebbiolo that any purist can appreciate.
The baseline 2019 Gattinara is yet another stunning example of the flagship wine, the cool-climate Valferana 2018 is positively electric, and the deep, rich Molsino 2018 is perhaps the pinnacle of the estate...so much so that Antonio Galloni is already calling it the 'Monfortino of Gattinara'...
...so we have that going for us...
...get 'em while you still can.
Gattinara 2019 1.5L
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street NYC 10011
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