MCF Rare Wine
Mastroberardino Taurasi Riserva Radici
A couple of weeks ago, I wrote about Luigi Tecce, the leader of Campania's vanguard. But today, I have yet another springtime offer for the producer who's responsible for Taurasi to begin with - Mastroberardino.
The absolute benchmark for the appellation and the grape, Radici Riserva perfectly blends the rustic, volcanic, intensely structured nature of Aglianico with a deep, dark fruit that carries all of that animale nature.
For a wine with such backbone, one that's capable of such a long life in the cellar, it also drinks quite beautifully out of the gate.
Both vintages in today's offer easily fit that description, but they're a bit different from each other.
The 2011 is (if one could say this about Radici Riserva) a rather lively version of this wine. It's quite aromatic and has a wonderful energy thanks to the acidity on the finish. However, the minerals and tannins on the back remind you that, while it's perfectly pleasant now, this one's going to last as long as you feel like allowing it to. I'm actually very excited for this 2011, as I love a more elegant outlier to balance out the bruiser vintages.
The fantastic 2007, meanwhile, is ultimately going to be one of the great examples of this wine, but you're going to have to give it some time. When I first offered it a couple of years ago, it arrived in the process of closing down, but I do think it's turned the corner a bit.
Given ample air time, it shows all of the volcanic spice and Taurasi's signature muskiness that you can ask for, and, as this wine often does, shows an incredible intensity of iron-y stoniness at the core. It's a mouth full of minerals, dark fruit and burly tannins that has never disappointed me. Lately it's begun to show a whiff of minty-ness at the edges of the bouquet.
If you like the beast, drink it now. If you want to forget about it for 50 years, feel free.
This might be the last lot of the 2007 I'll be able to offer, so don't miss out!
Mastroberardino Taurasi Riserva Radici 2011 2007
Wines should arrive in June or July, at which point the price will go to $59/btl.
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street
New York 10011