A quick announcement before you read further: we are open for business at our new location at 249 West 13th St, about 300 feet West of our old location! We will have an official welcome event in the coming weeks, but for all you locals who haven't come by yet, we are here for you! Now on to the fun stuff...
Maréchal 2014s: Honest to the Core
A couple of Christmases ago, we were at my parents' house and I had brought a few older bottles along to have with the special meals we had planned, but I also knew that we needed some extras. So I found myself in the basement digging through my Dad's wine fridge to find some additional things to stand up.
One of which was the 2006 Volnay of Catherine & Claude Maréchal.
I'll just say this. I texted a customer/friend of mine a picture of the lineup later that night (one that included some old Barolos and Rhones, etc.) with a message saying 'Guess which one showed the best?'
In case you haven't already guessed, it was the Maréchal.
I had enjoyed these wines many times over the years but always in a young stage, and to see just how beautifully they evolved was eye-opening to say the least.
It was classic Volnay: indescribably elegant, aromatic and balanced. The complexities were so subtle, so fleeting that you wanted to dive into the glass to so as not to miss any.
It wasn't a big wine, it wasn't a legendary wine, but for any lover of the ineffable quality that aged Burgundy can offer, it was exactly what you wanted.
It was just right.
Since then, I'd thought about these wines often, but I never quite got my act together to bring them into the shop.
Then, last week, one of my reps dropped me an email saying she'd be out with the Bourgogne Aligoté 2014 from Marechale and asked if I wanted to taste.
'Yes! Do you have any of the reds too?' was my quick reply.
A couple of days later, we were tasting a nice lineup that included the 2014 Bourgogne Aligoté and Bourgogne Rouge Gravels (in our new 'tasting' room at the new location, I might add).
The wines were as fantastic as I'd hoped.
2014 is a vintage I continue to be enamored with, and these wines are two more great examples of why.
The Aligoté is fresh and chiseled with loads of nuance and a nice cheesy note that I always love in a fresh white. It's a firm, genuine glass of old-fashioned French Chardonnay.
The red was densely-packed with clean, pure Cote de Beaune red fruit. It's at once fresh/elegant, yet broad-shouldered and compact. There is a lot more locked away deep inside this wine that will emerge over time.
Again, these wines are genuine, honest...however you want to say it, but they put on no airs and that's what's so refreshing about them.
Both of them fit firmly into that category I often reference, but have no official title for -- the 'It's So Good Now, but Will Only Get Better' category for wines under $40.
I think that, a long time ago, I referred to it as the 'Moderately Expensive Short-to-Medium Term Ager' class.
However you want to nickname them, these wines are both stunning examples of clean, delicious, minimal-intervention Burgundy for less than $30, and both of them have very promising futures!
I have a small amount of both wines here in the store, but there is plenty more available, so please DO go crazy!
I also have a minuscule amount of the gloriously cheerful, yet ethereal 2013 Volnay available. This beauty requires a bit more ageing, but you will be greatly rewarded.
CATHERINE et CLAUDE MARECHAL
Bourgogne Aligoté 2014 $23
Bourgogne Rouge Cuvée Gravel 2014 $29
Both Wines Discount by the Case
Six-Pack (three of each) $156
Mixed Case (six of each w/discount) $280.20
VOLNAY 2013 $43/btl net, limited (REG $49)
To order, please reply to this message or call 212.255.8870.
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
237 West 13th Street
New York 10011
MCF Rare Wine Ltd.