MCF Rare Wine
Jadot's 'Clair-Dau' Marsannay Rosé is Goooood
Today's wine is one I'm really excited about. (Which I suppose is a given since I'm writing about it.)
First and foremost because it's a great drink.
Second, because it shows just how good Rosé from Burgundy can be, even if it really only comes from a handful of producers in one appellation - Marsannay.
Third, because, even though it's apparently a bit of a touchy subject, I'm excited that Jadot has decided to honor the great old Clair-Dau estate with their label on this wine.
Yes, it's very sad that succession in Burgundy can be messy, and sometimes the lovely small producers end up being absorbed by large négoce operations, but I think that it's a great thing for Jadot to at least acknowledge and celebrate the greatness of Clair-Dau rather than just slap their own label on it and forget the past.
Granted, this is the first time they're doing it, and only on one wine, but it's a start.
(Okay, enough wading into the politics of Burgundy...)
Let's talk about the wine, because this is serious stuff that is seriously delicious.
Rosé from Marsannay are almost always of a much more imposing profile, and, in the first half hour after you pull the cork here, you'll certainly experience a weighty, structured and rather firm glass of wine.
With good air, though, it finds its direction and really begins to blossom.
And what emerges the most, and truly defines this wine, is the stony, stony mineral core. It's not the edgy, focused minerality like a Rosé from Provence or Sancerre.
It's a stocky, rich minerality - broad across the palate with an insanely textured feel to it.
It almost weighs on the tongue, and I mean that in the best possible way.
I don't want to keep calling it 'serious' but, really, that's the word for it. This is as substantial as a classic, dry French rosé gets.
It's fit to accompany a fuller meal right now, and it will also age very nicely for the next few years.
Perhaps you've (gasp) been avoiding any more deeply colored rosé out of fear of sweetness.
Here's one of the ones that will show you why that's not always the right approach.
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