MCF Rare Wine
Etna Rising: Girolamo Russo
Yes, I know...
I sent an offer for an Etna wine the other week.
And, yes, in that offer, I said that, despite all the attention the reds get, the whites from Etna are where the action's at.
And earlier this week, when Giuseppe Russo was here pouring his newest releases, I said the same thing after tasting his spectacularly chiseled and expressive '23 whites.
He and Rachel, my sales rep from his importer, both smiled.
'Just wait until you taste Beppe's '21 reds,' Rachel offered in reply.
After my first taste of the first red, I had to concede that she was spot on.
2021 is a classic-in-the-making vintage, and Russo's 2021 reds are mind-bendingly good. Perhaps some of the finest Etna reds I've ever tasted.
Really...
This entire lineup, both red and white, are going to be remembered...
...if not by anyone else, at least by me...
...for whatever that's worth...
GIROLAMO RUSSO
Etna Bianco Nerina 2023 - a blend of the Feudo, San Lorenzo and Calderara Sottana sites, the Nerina is just fantastic. It expresses both signature elements of the two higher end whites (the more textured, cheesy/smoky depth of the Feudo and the soaring, chiseled aromatics of the Lorenzo) in a broader, friendlier, and all around joyful way.
Etna Bianco Feudo 2023 - the Feudo takes the textural/smoky/mineral elements on display in the Nerina, and dials up both their depth and their seriousness. The firmer backbone and more tightly-wound profile will allow this one to really develop beautifully over the next 5-7 years.
Etna Bianco San Lorenzo - most of Contrada San Lorenzo is planted to red grapes, but, via these white grapes (Carricante 90%, Grecanico/Catarratto 10% each), the coolness and altitude of this incredible sight is on full display. It's focused, lofty and insanely aromatic. The structural elements are all racy, saline and mineral, and the chiseled, slender profile is just electric.
Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo 2021 - the Mezzo is the lightest and brightest of the three knockout reds from the utterly classic 2021 vintage. It's flowery, spicy, high toned and so wonderfully volcanic. The red fruits and super-focused tannins lead to a nicely salty/mineral finish.
Etna Rosso Feudo 2021 - the Feudo is denser and darker than the Mezzo, showing burlier tannin and a denser texture. All of the same salty/smoky/stony elements pervade the profile, and vibe beautifully with the more powerful dark fruits. When you need the flavor and texture dialed up, this is the wine.
Etna Rosso San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe 2021 - From the very best section of the middle of Beppe's San Lorenzo holdings, the Piano delle Colombe is a truly stunning expression of Etna. We've long been waiting for Etna to yield a wine that rivaled the world's greatest, and, with this extraordinary 2021 Colombe, we have received it! Honestly, the combination of elegance, breadth and stunningly deep Etna complexity in this gorgeous wine has been permanently imprinted in my mind. Yes, it's wildly pricey for what we normally think of from Etna, but this is pure beauty in a glass.
You may also order by replying to this message or calling 212.255.8870.
Matt Franco
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street NYC 10011
212.255.8870
Looking for a wine you loved from a past newsletter or a favorite you can't find anywhere? Email Raphael at raphael@mcf-rarewine.com, and we'll do our best to find it for you!
