MCF Rare Wine
Classic Campanian Mojo - Vadiaperti
I love Campanian wines.
Yes, most of you are well-versed in that aspect of my personality, but I can't help myself.
And, in the Summer, I love Campanian whites...
...especially classically-styled ones...
There's something so soulfully delicious about pairing these wines with things like simply prepared fresh seafood, light, spicy pastas and, of course, pizza night, that I eagerly look forward to them each time the weather starts to warm.
I suppose it's my (and I think all of your) lucky day, then, because today we're talking about wines that embody everything I mentioned above.
Vadiaperti is a generations-deep winery located in Montefredane, in the historic Irpinia zone located north of Avellino. Here they make only white wines, from my three favorite of the region's most noble white grapes - Greco, Fiano and Coda di Volpe.
They make two levels of each wine, the classic versions, and the 'selection' bottlings which utilize grapes from the oldest and highest-altitude vines they hold. Both wines are vinifed the same way, but the selection bottlings are aged in tank on their fine lees for up to two years and for a further period in bottle.
Now, Coda di Volpe might be the least known of the major white grapes in Campania, but it is far from the least important in my mind. Where Greco tends to be the most minerally firm and Fiano the most pungently volcanic, Coda strikes a near perfect harmony between floral, wild and mineral. Great Coda is light and fresh, and almost hints at flavors, rather than directly delivering them, and that's what's happening here - the 2021 Coda invigorates the palate, but only lets its true depth known on the lingering finish.
The Coda Torama 2017, however, lets loose the piney/floral spice in all its splendor, and ups the textural elements even further.
I've long thought that if I were to ever transition into making my own wine, I'd want to do it with Fiano - it really is both one of my favorite grapes and, for me, is one of the world's most underappreciated white varieties. The savory, mineral, smoky, spicy and cheesy elements, in combination with its gorgeously textured profile are everything I love in a white wine.
Like a great Chablis, blessed with the spirit of Vesuvius, Vadiaperti's Fiano di Avellino 2021 shows all of above mentioned character, in a fresh, linear and streamlined package. It's one of the most authentic Fiano you'll encounter.
The old-vine Aipierti Fiano 2017, like the Torama, dials up the density, complexity and texture, and, while it's still remarkably youthful in its freshness, sometime over the next year or two, an explosion of smoky/spicy/stony goodness will erupt...
...but this eruption will cover out palates in flavor, rather than bury a city in ash...
...so that's a good thing, I guess...
VADIAPERTI
Coda di Volpe 2021
Fiano di Avellino 2021
Coda di Volpe Torama 2017
Fiano di Avellino Aipierti 2017
You may also order by replying to this message or calling 212.255.8870.
Matt Franco
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street NYC 10011
212.255.8870
Looking for a wine you loved from a past newsletter or a favorite you can't find anywhere? Email Raphael at raphael@mcf-rarewine.com, and we'll do our best to find it for you!
