MCF Rare Wine

Champagne Renoir: Vinous, Bubbly, Beautiful
I try to be as honest as I can in these rants.

But, I promise...I'm not a contrarian just for the hell of it... just seems that way sometimes.

There, I wanted to get that out of the way before I said this -

I know that the general consensus on Champagne is that the structured, mineral-driven Chardonnay-centric wines are king for most Champagne lovers, followed closely by the oxidative/solera styles.

I love both of those...really...

But what I really love are those earthy, tangy, berry-fruited, super-vinous styles of Champagne...where the character of the vins clairs are the most important thing...the ones that taste like a light, but infinitely-complex red Burgundy that's been accelerated to 40,000rpm of energy and endowed with some bubbles, just for good measure.

So, earlier today, when I tasted two wines from Adrien Renoir, both of which tasted just like that, I was feeling pretty good about things... good, in fact, that I moved them right to the front of the line for the newsletter.  

Adrien Renoir has only been at the helm of his family's estate in Verzy for a short time, but he's already mastering things as far as I'm concerned.

Seeing as both of today's wines represent everything I just mentioned above, I guess it comes as no surprise that I think so highly of his work.

First, we have a one-off of sorts, though I sincerely hope it becomes a regular thing going forward.  Made entirely of Pinot Noir from various Grand Cru sites in the 2019 vintage, the idea behind the Brut Elevage Long was to highlight the salinity of Verzy...

...and he definitely nailed it.

After two years in used barrels and another 18 months sur latte, the Elevage Long is insanely fragrant, articulate and energetic, with copious amounts of deep, berried Pinot Noir fruit and a finish that's both bracing and, yes, saline.

It might not be cheap, but this is my personal favorite Champagne I've tasted so far this year.

He only made 584 bottles of this gem, 24 of which he kept for himself, and the rest he gave as an exclusive to his US Importer.

So...act accordingly on that front...

Then we have his Brut Rose Grand Cru Les 2 Terroirs, which is also 100% Pinot Noir, nearly all of which comes from Verzy, just 5% of which is Bouzy fruit.  It's also barrel fermented, and is also outrageously expressive in its generous berry-ness, driving acidity and deeply savory, astoundingly complex spectrum of flavors.  It's also got a nice blast of that Verzy salinity on the finish, as well.

Rachel, my rep from the importer, mentioned how she loves to taste his wines after the bubbles have had a few hours to dissipate, which allows that of that 'vinous' character to shine through completely.

Finishing up these last sentences, with some 'flat' glasses of each, and I must say that I wholeheartedly agree with her much as I wholeheartedly agree with Adrien's...

So get your whole head to focus getting your hands on some of these so that your whole heart can agree...

...these are extremely vinous, extremely special, bubbly beauties.

Brut Grand Cru Elevage Long (2019)
Brut Rosé Grand Cru Les 2 Terroirs NV

You may order by calling 212.255.8870.

Matt Franco
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street NYC 10011

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