MCF Rare Wine
A Beautiful Little Gevrey
A few years back, I was introduced to the wines of Derey Freres in the form of their fantastic 1er Cru Marsannay Champs Perdrix from the 2010 vintage.
It was a delicious glass of proper Burgundian Pinot Noir that punched way above its weight class. Needless to say, the 15 cases we had on hand were gone in rather short order.
Since then, the wines of Maxime and Romain Derey have, whenever actually available, graced the shelves in some form or another.
However, today's wine, the 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin, might be the one I'm most excited about since that 2010 Champs Perdrix.
I'll cut to the chase about why - I can't recall the last time I've had a wine that delivered as much 'Gevrey' character as this one does for such a fair price.
Its overall profile leans towards the darker side of the Burgundian spectrum, but combine that with the coolness of the lovely 2014 vintage and it makes for a rather varicolored expression. The same can be said for the texture on the palate - it's supple and round, but also fabulously elegant.
Underneath all of this charm, though, is where the true 'Gevrey-ness' comes out. The savory, musky, almost surly nature that I always from this appellation really offers a great contrast to the cooler, silkier elements making for a very complete (and ageworthy) wine.
While some more well-known producers only bottle village-level wines like this to pad the bottom line while they focus on their 1ers and Grands Crus, it's an entirely different situation for the Derey brothers.
The care with which they treat this wine is evident in every sip and it's always refreshing to find this level of quality at the less-than-$50 mark.
I still have one bottle of that 2010 Champs Perdrix that I've been circling around lately, so I think I'll stash away a few of these 2014 Gevrey to replace it!
MCF Rare Wine, LtdDerr
249 West 13th Street
New York 10011
mcf@mcf-rarewine.com
212.255.8870
www.mcf-rarewine.com
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